Jean-George's, a Michelin 3-star restaurant

8/5/2010

An important agenda while visiting NYC is of course to taste at one Michelin star restaurant, or two. Among the 5 restaurants who have earned 3 stars for year of 2010, I hunger for any of them. Now, facing some reality, Masa is probably appreciated by my 6-year-old, Le Bernardin is not kids friendly either. We are waiting for an experience at Thomas Keller's flagship, the French Laundry, hopefully in October, so we will have to pass Per Se. I've read a lot of rave reviews about Daniel, but I cannot resist Jean-George's if I can only have one stop at a 3-star restaurant in NYC.

Booking a lunch at Jean-George's on opentable wasn't very difficult, 2 weeks ahead. The disclaimer after taking my credit card number read that they accepted children 12 years or older. I had to call the restaurant, and the operator confirmed that my 6-year-old would be just fine.

Located centrally at Columbus Circle, it was right at the subway exit. Since attire was "jacket required", and we were tourists in August, I had packed by blazer in my backpack, and put it on right at the door.

We were led across Nougatine, which was the casual bar-like dining room at Jean-George's, into the formal dining room. Our table was beside the door that was open to Nougatine and the open kitchen. Not the best seat, but we could see the complete dining room from our corner. The room was bright, modern and elegant.

I was obviously over-dressed for lunch. I was one of the only two men in jackets. The others were either in open-collar shirts, or, as simple as polo t-shirts.

Lunch was probably the best deal - $29 for two dishes, and $14.50 for extra ones. Menu looked conservative. I had decided on a "Sea Trout Sashimi Draped in Trout Eggs, Lemon, Dill and Horseradish", and a "Sauteed Veal Scallopine, Flying Pig Ham". My wife ordered a "Sea Scallops, Caramelized Cauliflower, Caper-Raisin Emulsion", and a "Grilled Beef Tendorloin". My son happily settled for the buttered noodle, fancy name for his favorite Mac'n'Cheese.

Service was fast and good. Our bread and amuse-bouche arrived quickly.

Hmmm, wasn't salt banned in NYC restaurants? But this was salty.

Trout dish looked and tasted very fresh. Very nicely done and presentation was excellent. 

Scallops were good.

Veal was really just soso. It wasn't bad, but I would expect veal scallopine from a 3-star restaurant to be exceptional.

Beef was ok.

My son liked his buttered noodle.

For desserts, we had "Chocolate" and "Cherry".

There was also in-house made mashmarrow, chocolate, and macaroons.

During the course of the meal, our servers were attentive, and very friendly. Since we sat near the kitchen, we were thrilled to see Jean-George Vongerichten himself. He was supervising in the kitchen and often peeked at the dining room to check his guests.

Overall, I should say that Jean-George's was very good, in both food and service. It was especially a delight when a 2-course lunch could be enjoyed for less than $30, in the heart of Manhattan.

However, as one of the top restaurants in the city, I had wanted surprises.

This was my second Michelin 3-star restaurant, after Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France. Chef Bocuse's restaurant was an experience. I wouldn't say his food was the most delicious, however, no other restaurants could reproduce the level of authencity and luxury of dining. It was unique, and after the meal, you would agree it was definitely 3-star. Jean-George's needed something more impressive and memorable.